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Post by Deano on Dec 2, 2018 1:40:12 GMT -7
Let me start by apologizing for using a photo of a photo. This used to be a local truck and I thought that it had been parked up in a shed somewhere with the rest of their collection but I was wrong and it's gone to Queensland. I know the old owner vaguely so hopefully he may be forth coming with some more photos if not poetic licence takes over. The cab, bonnet and sleeper are all Auslowe items with heaps of white metal, P/E and resin bits involved. The donar kit is Italeri's FLD Freightliner but really only uses the chassis and roof marker lights! Auslowes instructions suggest re enforcing the chassis with extra plastic C channel to help cope with the weight of the resin and white metal. I'll use a white metal front axle to help take the weight. I'll also put the V8 Mack motor in it as per the original - it did give them some heart ache. They now run T950 Kenworths and a K108 Kenworth.
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Post by leon on Dec 2, 2018 2:52:06 GMT -7
WOW....This looks like a great project Deano!
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Post by DeeCee on Dec 2, 2018 3:06:41 GMT -7
This looks like some project man !!
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Post by stitchdup on Dec 2, 2018 3:50:59 GMT -7
Wow look at all those parts! will be watching. I've been eyeing up one of kfs scammell trunkers trans kits
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Post by RetroSpectKustoms on Dec 2, 2018 17:55:07 GMT -7
Whoa!! That is a lot of parts. I'll be watching this one, the real rig looks great.
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Post by Deano on Jan 14, 2019 21:17:54 GMT -7
Well, unfortunately, the instructions that come come with the transkit are a little vague to say the least. I've started to remove all the unwanted detail on the chassis and fill the holes. The instructions say that due to the weight of the resin parts that I beam should be inserted inside the chassis rails from the radiator back the 3rd cross member and C channel from there back to stop the chassis sagging. This would mean reducing the length of each cross member to keep the chassis width correct, plus removing all the detail inside the chassis rails would be a pain the the arse so I think I might try some brass angle along the bottom inside chassis. Hopefullly this means I'll just need to trim the bottom 'foot' of the cross members to keep it all correct. Open to other ideas! It's hardly an action packed photo but it is step 1 done!!
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Post by stitchdup on Jan 14, 2019 23:54:47 GMT -7
I've seen brass rails to replace the plastic rails somewhere but they would need the holes drilled and trimmed to suit. I think it was ctm or aitm that do them.
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Post by Deano on Jan 20, 2019 22:00:00 GMT -7
I've seen brass rails to replace the plastic rails somewhere but they would need the holes drilled and trimmed to suit. I think it was ctm or aitm that do them. A & N models from Latvia do a brass Volvo chassis and perhaps a generic one as well? Talking the problem through with Dad, he found some brass angle that I decided to use.
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Post by Deano on Jan 20, 2019 22:20:57 GMT -7
So this is the chassis with the brass angle in. I had to grind out all the detail along the lower inside edge of the chassis to get the brass back into the corner. Fortunately this meant the cross members could still line up on the upper marks and I didn't have to file down the cross members to keep the width of the chassis correct. I've left the chassis at full length to allow for the battery boxes and twin fuel tanks on each side. Each brass insert is 12 inches long. The transkit comes with the white metal front end to help take the weight of resin bonnet, cab, sleeper, engine and battery boxes. Bit of a bugger to get together nicely - sloppy fit and a delicate touch is required to mushroom over the pins that go through the tie rod ends to allow the steering to move. I've also swapped the steering over to RHD but aren't sure where to mount the power steering pump and reservoir - eventually the picture I need will turn up! I've just used the kit back end as the trans kit makes no suggestions to strengthening in any way so hopefully the brass will do. I don't think that it is correct for the Mack in question but I'm not too worried as it will be hidden by the guards and deck plates etc.
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Post by vcv8273 on Jan 21, 2019 0:25:46 GMT -7
Awesome attention to detail Deano, looking forward to more progress on this one
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Post by mustang1989 on Jan 22, 2019 13:03:29 GMT -7
Man these truck builds of yours are off the charts Dean!!
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Post by mmthrax on Jan 22, 2019 16:38:15 GMT -7
That looks really neat. Looks like it's going to be BIG.
Watching this space...
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Post by DeeCee on Jan 23, 2019 1:36:12 GMT -7
Your detail on these big rigs is amazing mate. Popcorn%20and%20drink%20emoticon_zpsnbkzs8ys Popcorn%20and%20drink%20emoticon_zpsnbkzs8ys Popcorn%20and%20drink%20emoticon_zpsnbkzs8ys
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Post by leon on Jan 23, 2019 3:39:10 GMT -7
Really nice work on the chassis Deano!
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Post by Deano on Mar 10, 2019 2:44:28 GMT -7
Thanks for the interest guys. Progress on this has been so slow you need to line it up with a fence post to see it move. Mainly due to things being stupidly busy and a lack of clear intructions. No instructions doesn't pose a problem when it's your idea but trying to work someone else's ideas is harder especially when the process if different to usual. I like to have my cab and sleeper mounts sorted so they can be done in the chassis colour but this build has them attached to the floors first. So here is the sleeper cab floor. 7 pieces in total and pretty cleanly cast. This is the cab floor. Apparently the 1:1 version has no centre mount under the join between cab and sleeper but the locating position is cast into the floor ( spend too long looking for a centre mount before I realised it didn't have 1). I just used bullclips to join the 2 together to get the floors in. So before i can locate the cab the bonnet mount needs to go on the front of the chassis. It looked alright like this so I had a quick mock up by mounting the bonnet so I could line the cab up to it but the weight of the bonnet broke the mounting plate off the chassis when I tilted it forward. To over come this I pinned it to the chassis. Everything lined up as it should until I stood it on its wheels and it looked like it was trying to lie down! It seems there is an issue in the white metal casting as all the tabs line up with each other but this is the result. At least the plate seems secure now because I couldn't get the sod off the straighten it! The bracket on the bonnet however damn near fell off so I blocked up the low side by 0.5mm - unfortunately pretty much how they do the real ones. Looks rubbish like this but the mount is hidden by the bullbar and the body mouldings/ creases ( what is the word? ?) all line up now. This is it mocked up with the broken bonnet mount. Now that this is done, I can assemble the battery boxes that go behind each front wheel. The mudguard behind each front wheel is also mounted to these boxes so I'll have to temporarily attach them so I can position the boxes in the right spot to line up with the bonnet. Boxes are chassis colour, guards are body colour or black. Once these are done, the rear guards are set up and the fuel tanks go into the remaining space - hopefully!
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Post by DeeCee on Mar 10, 2019 2:53:43 GMT -7
Looks like it's going to fight you all the way mate.... but i KNOW you will kick it's arse...
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Mack Titan
Mar 10, 2019 19:22:35 GMT -7
via mobile
Post by mustang1989 on Mar 10, 2019 19:22:35 GMT -7
Kickin arse and taking names. Looks like you’re winning the war with this one.
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Post by mmthrax on Mar 11, 2019 8:58:38 GMT -7
It does look like a challenge to say the least.
I'm sure you will overcome though.
Carry on sir...
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Post by Deano on Mar 12, 2019 0:09:08 GMT -7
Thanks for the encouragement guys. It gets frustrating at times seeing all the progress being made here when mine feels like it's going backwards but hopefully bits will fall into place now.
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Post by mustang1989 on Mar 12, 2019 14:36:52 GMT -7
Keep at 'er Dean.....and keep posting those photos.
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Post by Deano on Apr 20, 2019 16:36:48 GMT -7
So, I have done a little more to this but it continues to be a 'long way round' kind of build. This is Auslowes V8 Mack engine. Needed a fair bit of cleaning up and comes with a sheet of pictures but no instructiions. Is different to the one that I think comes in the Dm800 Mack kit. Made up some access step to allow you to get up and connect the air hoses etc. Little different from the original but hopefully adds a little bit if detail and interest. There won't be too much underside detail on this build but I did use a pin to represent the diff breather. This can be a source of staining/dirt if your're weathering the truck. Resin tank brackets are on complete with stiffening bars between the bottom of the brackets. 1 bracket sits a bit lower than the rest so hopefully some gentle heat will massage it back into line.
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Post by leon on Apr 21, 2019 4:13:10 GMT -7
This is coming along nicely Deano! The addition of the step looks good.
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Post by stitchdup on Apr 21, 2019 9:52:59 GMT -7
Nicely done mate, the steps look neat and the pin tip will be handy
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Post by mmthrax on Apr 25, 2019 9:12:16 GMT -7
Looks like you are making good progress.
Should be very cool.
Carry on sir....
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Post by DeeCee on Apr 26, 2019 4:31:06 GMT -7
WON'T BE TOO MUCH UNDERSIDE DETAIL!!! He says.... you have more underside detail than anything i have ever built !!!! That looks amazing already mate, and those little stairs... WOW !!!
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Post by Deano on Apr 26, 2019 16:58:55 GMT -7
Thanks guys. Well, I'm not doing airlines, valves and stuff. Have a Superliner build in the pipeline that I might do a bit on.
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Post by mustang1989 on Apr 28, 2019 15:26:09 GMT -7
This is going to turn out great. Very nice additions to this build. Bring it Dean. Bring it. Popcorn%20and%20drink%20emoticon_zpsnbkzs8ys
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Post by Deano on May 12, 2019 2:56:25 GMT -7
Basic engine color done. Apparently Royal Blue with 2 or 3 drops of grey primer in it is a pretty good match for the original. Not sure I've nailed it but it'll do. Been working on the guards, was going great until I realised the super glue wasn't holding the aluminium guards and resin brackets together and when the weight went on they came apart. So instead of alloy rods through the brackets< I've had to go back to plastic with plastic studs going through the alloy guards so I can heat swage it all together - I hope!! Pics to come.
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Post by DeeCee on May 12, 2019 3:21:43 GMT -7
That is a sweet color on that engine mate.
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Post by leon on May 12, 2019 5:06:11 GMT -7
Really like the engine color Deano!
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