Post by geardriven on Jul 6, 2018 16:11:39 GMT -7
If you have been following my recent paint threads, I am causious and inquisitive on how to perform a susccessful spray can paint job.
To be explanatory, both of the bodies discussed will be used for hardbody 1/25 slot car racing.
My first job was shooting a 70-1/2 Z-28 Tamiya Italian Red.
This was my first rattle can paint job since my youth of about 45 years ago. I always shot in enamels ant the authenticity was less than desired.
However, today's lacquers are phenomenal and I am "stoked" with the results of this application.
Now, here is my quandary...
Solids...like Italian Red are forgiven in that the finish coat on solids can be sanded and then cleared.
My next project is shooting a '66 Charger in Model Master Nassau Blue Metallic.
I shoot in a bad environment (a dusty garage on top of a garbage can with dog hairs).
I understand it is a no-no to sand the patina finish if a metallic...
So, what does one do with nibs and debris in the finish costly of a metallic...
Need some guidance here.....Again, suggestions please...
To be explanatory, both of the bodies discussed will be used for hardbody 1/25 slot car racing.
My first job was shooting a 70-1/2 Z-28 Tamiya Italian Red.
This was my first rattle can paint job since my youth of about 45 years ago. I always shot in enamels ant the authenticity was less than desired.
However, today's lacquers are phenomenal and I am "stoked" with the results of this application.
Now, here is my quandary...
Solids...like Italian Red are forgiven in that the finish coat on solids can be sanded and then cleared.
My next project is shooting a '66 Charger in Model Master Nassau Blue Metallic.
I shoot in a bad environment (a dusty garage on top of a garbage can with dog hairs).
I understand it is a no-no to sand the patina finish if a metallic...
So, what does one do with nibs and debris in the finish costly of a metallic...
Need some guidance here.....Again, suggestions please...
