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Post by mrmike on Nov 7, 2017 9:48:46 GMT -7
My newest project-the Foose FD100 Pickup aka The Overlord! I was very happy when this kit was announced and when I acquired it from my local Hobby Lobby with my 40% off coupon, I was ecstatic! That all turned to disappointment when I opened the kit and saw a baggie inside with two metal axles. The instructions verified what I had feared-a metal axle going through the oil pan! To me, this was inaccurate. I am going to correct these inaccuracies with this build. This is what I am starting with.  My paint with be Testors One Coat Lacquer Deja Blue.  This is what I don't like, a solid axle going through the front suspension, frame, and oil pan.  There should be a set of coil springs or coil overs here. I'll search for some in my parts box. This metal axle can be seen when viewing the front suspension.  The first step is to fill in the notches in the frame.   On the rear of the frame are these supports for the rear axle. These have to go!  That's better! Much more accurate, too!  I got the Roush 427 engine assembled and ready for primer and paint. This engine will be painted black.  I plugged the hole in the oil pan with a piece of styrene I had lying on the bench.  It was pointed out that there is quite the gap between the cab and the bed wall. I used my Dremel and a grinding bit removed some plastic from the running boards at the lower front fenders. This helped close the gap a bit.  The cab top leaves a bit of a gap above the rear window, so out came the Bondo to fill in the gap.   I inserted two lengths of 1/16 styrene rod into the back of the front wheels with some glue.  More to come... |
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Post by jmccann630 on Nov 7, 2017 18:03:25 GMT -7
Nice work on all the modifications. The chassis will look much better. Cant wait to see more!
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Post by DeeCee on Nov 8, 2017 2:55:05 GMT -7
It will be one sweet looking pick-up once it is done Michael, and i am pleased you fixed that metal front axle B/S....
I can't believe they would do that on a newly designed kit.. oh_jeez-1018_zpskf8ctjic
And the gap in the back of the roof... looks like newer guys designing these things really have no clue at what we desire
quality wise in a kit.
Looks better with the bed snugged up too. Popcorn%20and%20drink%20emoticon_zpsnbkzs8ys
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Post by mustang1989 on Nov 8, 2017 9:34:43 GMT -7
It will be one sweet looking pick-up once it is done Michael, and i am pleased you fixed that metal front axle B/S.... I can't believe they would do that on a newly designed kit..  And the gap in the back of the roof... looks like newer guys designing these things really have no clue at what we desire quality wise in a kit. Looks better with the bed snugged up too.  Despite the flaws this thing has, in the hands of a good modeler (such as seen here in this thread) , this has the makings of a very nice kit. I still can't get over the engine though. It's the best OOB engine I've seen yet. |
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Post by mrmike on Nov 9, 2017 6:12:00 GMT -7
Thank you guys! With the axle issue behind me, I can move ahead with the rest of this build. I wonder why Revell went with a double roof on this truck? I saw the same thing on the '65 Chevy Pickup-a double roof. Why? I can understand if the mold was really complex and couldn't be done, but the Foose Ford cab doesn't seem to be that complex. The engine in this kit is really nice and details very well. A visitor to my Club had won this kit in the Club raffle, took the engine out and gave the rest of the kit away.
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 9, 2017 8:58:33 GMT -7
The roof issue on the chevy wasn't too bad (amt did their 60 the same way) but I can see the gap is much larger on this kit. It could be down to people in china not having seen one but more likely/hopefully it means there are other versions in the pipeline
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Post by mrmike on Nov 13, 2017 7:52:35 GMT -7
Actually, I don't want to blame anyone for the gap on the roof. It's there and I can fix it so why complain? If it was a huge gap, I might say something about it. Since the can of Testors De Ja Blue that I have is a partial can, I picked up new can on the way back from the LIARS Show in Long Island, NY. I should have plenty of paint for the Ford.
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Post by coyotecrunch on Nov 13, 2017 19:20:01 GMT -7
Popcorn%20and%20drink%20emoticon_zpsnbkzs8ys Popcorn%20and%20drink%20emoticon_zpsnbkzs8ys
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Post by mrmike on Nov 14, 2017 8:22:06 GMT -7
I painted the wheel centers with Humbrol Metallic Grey and when that dried, I coated the wheels with two coats of Model Master Semi Gloss Clear.   The Roush 427 R motor got two coats of Model Master Aluminium Plate and two coats of Model Master Semi Gloss Clear.  More to come... |
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Post by mrmike on Nov 16, 2017 9:19:31 GMT -7
I painted the Foose FD100 this morning.    More to come... |
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Post by mustang1989 on Nov 16, 2017 11:19:18 GMT -7
Good looking stuff so far Mike. I did a little research and not that it matters a whole lot but I believe that this motor is actually a 451 c.i.d. engine which'll give it "shonuff" more punch.
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Post by mrmike on Nov 16, 2017 19:25:51 GMT -7
Joe, you are correct that the engine is 451 CI. If I remember correctly, it is a punched out 427 Sideoiler that was already capable of some 500 HP.
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Post by stitchdup on Nov 18, 2017 4:45:35 GMT -7
Great colour choice Michael
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Post by mrmike on Nov 18, 2017 13:19:08 GMT -7
Well, it had to happen. My painting luck has turned against me. At first, I thought the paint was so hot that is crazed the plastic, but I'm starting to think that the hot Testors paint reacted with the Tamiya primer. This morning, I tried to polish the paint with some Meguirs Scratch X 2.0 and the rough surface turned smooth. There is still no luster as I think the Tamiya primer may have been a little damp when I started to spray the Testors De Ja Blue One Coat Lacquer and the primer may have mixed with the paint. I am planning on a wet-sanding session to see if the primer had mixed with the paint. Time will tell...    More to come... |
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Post by DeeCee on Nov 18, 2017 14:34:13 GMT -7
Nice color Michael, the wheel color works well with it too.
If the wet sanding doesn't bring out the shine, just re-clear it, that usually works with auto paints.
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Post by sharp on Nov 19, 2017 13:31:52 GMT -7
This is looking very good Mike,like Dale said I would give it a light sanding then a couple more coats of clear,it should have a very nice shine after that.
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Post by mrmike on Nov 19, 2017 14:52:52 GMT -7
Thanks DeeCee and Sharp! I'll wet-sand and repaint and then go from there. Well, it seems that I take two steps forward and one step back. I didn't like the job I did on the wheels when I painted the spokes. I tossed them into a container with Easy-Off to strip the chrome and paint and I'll start over.  The frame has it's suspensions attached.  The distributor has plug boots. I just need to attach the base and paint it.  More to come... |
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Post by mustang1989 on Nov 20, 2017 10:51:19 GMT -7
I've had some difficulties on the gloss coat myself but after wet sanding it out it seems to go on fine. The wet primer doesn't help things out a whole lot but Tamiya primer is a lacquer based primer so you should be ok with that. What air brush are you using to shoot the paint through Mike? I will say though, that is a pretty color.
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Post by mrmike on Nov 20, 2017 19:10:49 GMT -7
No airbrush here on this one. Strictly rattle can!
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Post by coyotecrunch on Nov 20, 2017 19:32:09 GMT -7
reseal-able gallon bucket, Tupperware works fine.
fill with 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of Future
Dip and dry - super shiny, easy peezy
Or, as I always say, it's good enough for the girls I go with!!!!
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Post by mrmike on Nov 21, 2017 9:05:00 GMT -7
Thanks for the tip! I don't use Future, but I will keep it in mind. I was looking at the interior parts and I noticed that the seat has no back to it. I'm sure it doesn't show, but I had to put a back on the seat just to satisfy myself.  The wheels are out of the Easy-Off bath and were washed. A little cleanup and they'll be mounted and ready for paint.  I haven't decided on using flocking or embossing powder for the carpet. Decisions, decisions.  More to come... |
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Post by DeeCee on Nov 21, 2017 13:19:21 GMT -7
Some more nice work there Michael, and good to see you put a back on the seat... as WE know it's there now... nice work !
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Post by mrmike on Nov 21, 2017 18:43:05 GMT -7
Thanks DeeCee!
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Post by mustang1989 on Nov 21, 2017 20:20:01 GMT -7
Ya know, I felt the same way about that seat. I can't say about this build but on my first F-100 that I built a couple of years ago I didn't put a seat back on that one and at just the right angle looking down from the back glass you CAN see it. Good call on that one Mike.
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Post by mrmike on Nov 22, 2017 14:00:52 GMT -7
Thank you Joe! It just seemed to be something that I had to do. I don't know if the open back could be seen or not, it just needed a back cover.
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Post by mrmike on Nov 24, 2017 14:59:09 GMT -7
I got the wheels painted with Tamiya TS-42 Light Gun Metal and trimmed with rim edge with my Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen.  I painted the side panels and dash with Tamiya TS-48 German Grey. Not shown is the seat which was painted with the same paint.  The exhaust and the radiator where painted with Model Master Aluminium Plate Metalizer and then coated with Testors Semi Gloss Clear.  More to come... |
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Post by lowlife on Nov 25, 2017 8:27:15 GMT -7
Looking good Mike, nice little corrections your doin along the way, the suspension is much better !!
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Post by mrmike on Nov 25, 2017 15:37:11 GMT -7
Thanks lowlife! I just knew I could make it better!
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Post by mrmike on Nov 26, 2017 8:25:45 GMT -7
I applied the decals to the air cleaner and valve covers this morning. I'll let these dry awhile, then spray some gloss clear over them.  I applied some decals to the engine and installed the MAD distributor. Once the valve covers are on, I'll run the wires to the heads.  The wheels and disc brakes are all glued on so this FD100 is not going to roll off the table and hit the floor. I did a mockup to check the stance and I like it!  More to come... |
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Post by sharp on Nov 26, 2017 8:57:28 GMT -7
This is looking good Mike,like the way the wheels look too.
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